Seedlings are at their most vulnerable just as they start to germinate - so you want to be sure they have adequate moisture and do not dry out during this critical phase. it makes a huge difference.ģ) Watering Regularly. If growing many seedlings, use a small fan to move air around. If using humidity domes be sure to leave them off or prop them up for at least a couple of hours per day. Ensuring lots of air flow around seedlings is the # 1 practice that can eliminate fungal issues. If there is one type of seed-starting disappointment that trumps all others, it is to have ostensibly healthy looking seedlings die off because of fungal diseases (e.g. Many other varieties can be direct seeded - more on this closer to spring! Click here to see our seed timing chart on-lineĢ) Air Circulation. These plants should be started in late April: Zinnia, Squash, Cucumbers, Zucchini, Watermelon, Pumpkins
These plants should be started in mid April: Lemon Balm, Bunny Tails, Basil, indoor lettuce and greens bowls, Epazote, Midnight Candy, Hyacinth Bean, Asparagus Pea These plants should be started around the third week of March: Tomatoes, Thyme, Oregano, Parsley, Tomatillos, Catnip, Lovage, Okra, Malabar Spinach, Mexican Tarragon, Common Sage These plants must be started early: (February through mid March) Peppers, Eggplant, Onions, Leeks, Artichokes, Celery, Milkweed, Fennel, Cumin, Petunias, Echinacea, Larkspur, Dianthus, Lavender, Chives, Shallots, White Sage As a rule, perennial plants and those that bear fruit require the longest growing times, and leafy varieties or those that are warm season annuals do best started close to planting time (or direct seeded). Some seeds benefit from being started early, others suffer for it.
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